Technique: Adding a Button Band to a Cardigan

From Fruity Knitting, how to construct vertical buttonholes in a button band. Pick up stitches along the cardigan front and knit just less than half the width of the button band. eg where the button band will end up 11 stitches wide, make the buttonholes at eg 5 rows. Being a bit closer to the body of the cardigan will make it more stable and not stretch out the button band edge so much.

When constructing buttonholes the traditional way, the first round is a series of bound-off stitches and the next row a series of (an equal number) of cast-on stitches. This technique is different.

Barbara Walter uses a 1-row buttonhole technique which is detailed here. It can be worked from either the RS or the WS of the knitting but looks neater when worked from the WS. 

For example, where we want the buttonhole to be 3 stitches long.

1. Work the buttonhole in row 5 of the band with each buttonhole being 3 stitches wide.
2. Work to the position of the buttonhole then bring yarn to the front, slip 1 stitch purlwise, bring yarn to the back, slip another stitch purlwise, then pass 1st slipstitch over the 2nd.
3. Slip next stitch purlwise then PSSO. Repeat to the last stitch cast off, here it is 3
4. Put the last stitch back onto the left needle. Turn work to the other side and hold yarn to the back.
5. Cast on the number of stitches bound off + 1 (so here, cast on 3 + 1 = 4 stitches) using the Cable Cast-on method.
6. Turn work to the other side and hold yarn to the back.
7. Slip one stitch from the left needle to the right, and pass the last cast-on stitch over this stitch

Place the buttonhole closer to the body side of the band rather than the edge of the band for greater stability

Technique - Comparison of Increases and Decreases

 

Comparison of Short Row Techniques

Wrap and Turn Short rows

Good for loose gauge eg lace

Japanese Short Rows

Good for invisibility

German Short Rows

Neat. Better in a tight gauge.

Yarn-over Short Rows

Good for socks

 

Technique - I-cord Bind off

The I-cord bind-off creates a corded edge. It is typically created using 3 cast-on stitches but can be more or less to give a thicker or thinner cord.

Technique:

1. Cast-on 3 stitches using the cable method
2. Knit the first two stitches then slip then knit two together through the back loop = 3 stitches on the right needle
3. Slip the 3 stitches on the right needle back onto the left needle and then repeat step 2 to the end
4. Knit last two stitches together and weave in the end

Mending a Hole

This technique is courtesy of Andrea, Fruity Knitting. eg threadbare areas around a hole in the back of the heel of a sock. The aim is to knit a lattice that is larger than the area that will be appliqued over the hole.

Technique:

1. Start the patch 2 - 3 stitches below the threadbare area and 2 - 3 rows wider than the area.
2. Working from right to left, and using a dpn that is smaller than the needle size the sock was knitted on, pick up the right leg of all the stitches in the first row eg 19 stitches.
3. Thread a darning needle with plenty of yarn and weave in the end, coming up through the middle of the stitch immediately to the right of the first stitch on the dpn.
4. Knit across the dpn stitches with another dpn with yarn that is attached to a darning needle, from right to left. Secure at the end of the row by going down between the next stitches with the darning needle, under two bars and up, ready to purl back.
5. Slip the first stitch of the row purl-wise and then purl back.
6. Continue back and forth in this manner until the patch is complete and the sides have been secured, ending with a knit row.
7. Turn the work around so that the patch is facing away from you, and with the spare dpn pick up the same number of stitches eg 19 from the sock immediately below the stitches on the dpn.
8. Use Kitchener stitch to finish off the live stitches and weave in the yarn end.

Mending a Threadbare Area

 This technique is courtesy of Andrea, Fruity Knitting. eg the back of the heel of a sock, using duplicate stitch.

Technique:

1. First, thread a large needle with the yarn and place the threadbare area over a darning egg.
2. Start a couple of stitches below and a couple of rows to the right of the threadbare area - you need to start on a stable area
3. Leaving a tail, weave a path to where you want the first stitch to lie.
4. Go up through the middle of the first stitch then across through both legs of the first stitch from right to left (forms the right leg of the duplicate stitch) then back down through the middle of the stitch (forms the left leg of the duplicate stitch). Go up through the middle of the next stitch to the left and repeat, moving along the row from right to left
5. Move up a row by going up through the middle of the stitch above and then continuing as before but going through the legs from left to right so that you can move along the row from left to right. It's easier to do this direction upside down.

Elizabeth Zimmerman's Percentage System

Elizabeth’s Percentage System

Elizabeth Zimmermann, timeless knitting guru, is the founder of a series of equations related to sweater construction. She refers to these mathematical ratios as Elizabeth’s Percentage System or EPS. The system asserts that the ratios between elements of a well-fitted sweater are proportional and can be used to create ideal garments time and again. The basics of her “unvention” are explained below.

The percentage system is based on two general sweater shapes: the yoke and the drop shoulder. In the yoke style, the body is knit in the round to the underarms, as are the sleeves, and all three are joined to work the shoulders and neck in the round. Any number of different finishes can be executed once the body and sleeves are united including raglan, yoke, saddle shoulder and others. The drop shoulder style is worked in the round all the way to the neck with steeks used for the armholes or divided at the armholes and worked back and forth to the neck. The sleeves are joined afterward.

All calculations are based on the number represented by the variable K. K is your “key number” and stands for the number of stitches around the largest part of the body of the garment. You can figure out this value by multiplying your number of stitches per inch (gauge) by the circumference of the garment in inches. For example, a garment knit at 5 stitches per inch that is 50 inches around would result in K = 250. All further variables are gleaned from this initial number.

There are many wonderful things about this system. You can use it to calculate the dimensions of your favorite sweater in order to recreate the fit in a new sweater. You can also adjust the formulas to reflect the current fashion trends in terms of sleeves and fit. Create a snugger silhouette by reducing the percentage of stitches in the wrist and upper arm of the sleeve, create a boat neck by increasing the number of stitches at the neck, increase with greater or lesser frequency to change the overall shape of the sleeve. The possibilities are endless, as they often are with Zimmermann’s teachings.

First let us take a look at the yoke version of the percentage system. Let’s continue with the example we started above. The value of K was 250 stitches. Therefore, the value of the other variables would be as follows: A = 50 to 62 stitches, B = 88 to 100 stitches, C = 20 to 25 stitches and D = 100 stitches. “A” are the wrist stitches. To achieve the requisite stitches at the underarm (B), you could increase evenly over the length of the sleeve, or you could increase rapidly to create more drastic shaping. It’s really up to you! You will notice that C appears 4 times, once on each sleeve and once on either side of the body. These are the stitches that are placed on hold as the top of the garment is finished. They will be woven together later.

Next, consider the drop shoulder version of the example sweater. Again, we will use K = 250 stitches. Therefore, the value of the other variables would be as follows: A = 50 to 62 stitches, B = 112 to 125 stitches and D = 82 to 100 stitches. You will notice on this sweater that the upper arm is quite roomy at up to half the size of the body. This sweater will have a looser, more sweatshirt-like feel to it.

Depending upon the type of neckline you choose, the number of stitches you need for D may vary. You may choose to make a v-neck, Henley , or crew neck that is lower in the front by using a steek if you are knitting in the round, or incorporating the shaping if you are knitting the body back and forth above the bottom of the armhole.

IMPORTANT: These are merely guidelines and sample measurements. Experiment on your own with measurements from your favorite store-bought or previously knit sweaters. Or, measure the given areas on the person you are knitting for to customize a sweater as a gift. Be creative! Elizabeth Zimmermann is all about giving you the power to customize your own knitted garment!

Percentages are taken from “The Opinionated Knitter: Elizabeth Zimmerman Newsletters 1958-1968“, pg 14-15.

EXAMPLE

Step one is a swatch. Cast on 30 stitches on a circular needle and knit 20 rows then bind off loosely. Calculate the gauge over 4" and then per inch. This is the number of stitches per inch for this yarn on these needles for you. eg 3.5 stitches per inch. Measure your chest eg 46". Therefore, 46 x 3.5 sts = 161 sts (round up to 162 sts). This number of stitches is used to determine all the other percentages in the jumper. 162 x 90% = 145.8 (round up to 146 sts) for the lower hem (the cast-on) 162 x 20% = 32.4 (round down to 32) for the hem of the sleeve 162 x 40% = 64.8 (round down to 64) for the bicep 162 x 45% = 72.9 (round down to 72) for the necck Cast on 146 stitches and knit a couple inches of ribbing. Increase 16 stitches to 162 stitches evenly across the row, (ie knit 9, make 1) and knit the body up to the underarms. Length is a matter of personal taste, usually about16 inches. Put the body aside, just leave it for now with all the stitches live on a needle, and knit the two sleeves: Cast on 32 stitches, knit in ribbing for a couple inches, then at the underarm, increase 2 stitches every 3 or 4 rows until you have 64 stitches (that's 40%), and knit until you like the length. Knit a duplicate sleeve for the other side. To avoid the embarrassing cliché of a sweater with sleeves two different lengths, make sure you've got the exact number of rows in each sleeve (hint: row counter). At this point, we have three separate pieces of knitting. One body and two sleeves.  Put 8% x 162 = 13 stitches on stitch holders at the underarms, both on the body and the sleeves. On the body, that would mean you'd have 68 stitches for the front of the body, 13 stitches at the armpit on a holder, 68 stitches for the back of the body, and 13 stitches at the other armpit on a holder. (68+13+68+13=162 ) Subtract the armpit stitches -- 26 total -- then divide what is left by 2, to get front and back.) MAKE SURE THE ARMPITS ARE OPPOSITE EACH OTHER. That's the only thing you can potentially screw up on this stage. Put 13 armpit stitches at the underarm of each sleeve on holders, leaving you 51 active stitches per sleeve.  Put the sleeves and body on one circular needle, with everything aligned as it would be on the body: sleeve, body front or back, sleeve, other half of body, other sleeve. (I do this by just knitting it all onto the needle -- I knit my way across the back, knit on the stitches of the sleeve, knit across the front, and knit on the stitches for the other sleeve.) You should now have 238 stitches on your needle: 68 back stitches, 51 sleeve stitches, 68 front stitches, 51 sleeve stitches = 238 stitches total. Make sure there are stitch markers at the four places where sleeve and body meet. (Those are known as armpit corners at my house.)  The hard part is done. In fact, making sure your sleeves are on opposite sides of your body is about the only hard part to this method of knitting.  Knit an inch or two plain. The more you knit plain, the deeper the arm holes will be. Up to you.  Once you've got your arm holes deep enough, begin the raglan decreasing. Decrease TWO STITCHES at EACH MARKER, EVERY OTHER ROW. The decrease used on my sweater was slip-slip knit, move marker, knit 2 together. You could alternately use slip 1, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over, or, heck, any double decrease or pair of decreases, so long as you get the numbers right. That means you do a row where you decrease 8 stitches (2 at each of 4 markers), then a row plain. Then another decrease row, then another plain row...that's it.  Decrease until you get to about 72 stitches (162 x 45% = 72.9 stitches), knit an inch or so of ribbing, and bind off. If you want, you can put in a short row or two across the back of the neck to make it fit better, but it's not vital. All you've got left to do is graft together your armpits. That's all the finishing there is; no real seams.  Congratulations. You've just made up your very own pattern. Now go do another one, but put in colors, or a cable, or something.  Anyone who said "I can't do that" is grounded!

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